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rt1976
(@rt1976)
Eminent Member

Just curious what you guys think about the looks of my Soft Lok clutch. Car is 2,850# w/ me in it. 4.3 rear w/ a 3.03 first gear. Trans is clutch assisted DR-4. It is a new set up and I was running 4 turns of base and 10 grams / lever counter weight. Clutch only has 10 passes on it. Car runs low 10's so far. The last pass I accidentally launched in third and slipped it pretty good. So I took it apart and this is what it looks like. Disc was a .280" unit and it measures  pretty consistently @ .269". However, if you look at the pic it seems the hat side  is much thinner than the other. Also some material has flaked off some of the corners. Does this seem normal?  Looks like it got pretty hot but I am new to these and I'm, sure the third gear launch didn't help.  

This topic was modified 3 months ago by rt1976
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Posted : 03/08/2019 11:42 pm
rt1976
(@rt1976)
Eminent Member

flywheel pic

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Posted : 03/08/2019 11:44 pm
rt1976
(@rt1976)
Eminent Member

clutch side pic

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Posted : 03/08/2019 11:44 pm
rt1976
(@rt1976)
Eminent Member

I'm also running a hydraulic TO bearing it seems to release quickly and the car launched well w/o bogging or any noticible slippage.  Gear changes are not violent either.

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Posted : 03/08/2019 11:47 pm
rt1976
(@rt1976)
Eminent Member

pressure plate pic

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Posted : 03/08/2019 11:55 pm
Dennis111
(@dennis111)
Reputable Member

Did you back out of the run quickly during the 3rd gear launch or attempt to run it out? 

Definitely too much heat from too much slippage.  You shouldn't see that much bluing and the disc is definitely glazed.

I've accidentally done some dry burnouts needed to back into the water box but never seen that much heat on my junk.

This post was modified 3 months ago by Dennis111

Dennis
65' STANG, 434W NA, G101A, 4:56 Spool, Victor Heads, Super Vic Intake, Bullet SR, Braswell Carb, 11:1 CR, 3550lbs
9.66@140.65

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Posted : 04/08/2019 12:12 pm
rt1976
(@rt1976)
Eminent Member

I backed out right away after the launch, threw it in second and coasted down the track. I also had some air gap issues w/ it creeping in the lights that I've been playing with. So its slipped a little a few other times.

Do you think it needs a resurface?

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Posted : 04/08/2019 1:11 pm
Dennis111
(@dennis111)
Reputable Member

The air gap issues aren't doing the clutch any favors and may have lead to much of the bluing.  Besides disc air gap you also need to have at least .250" gap between the TOB and the levers as the gap closes up during a run and will cause slippage (like you are riding the clutch.)  I don't mess with the hydraulic stuff (which typically have limited travel) so you are on your own there. A race friend had a  similar pulling through the light hydraulic TOB issues and 2 weeks later he mechanical and the car worked great.  Others have been quite successful using the hydraulic units so I can't say that they are all bad.

With mechanical linkage one can add a 2nd scalloped out blocking plate to gain lever clearance.  Not sure if that is an option for you.

Your stuff should be resurfaced and the disk cut or replaced AFTER you do what you can to increase the air gap and TOB to lever gap.  If you want to experiment further and there are no major heat cracks on the flywheel/PP you could deglaze the disk and see how it works after gaining some travel.  The clutch might be grabby but at least you could sort out the travel issues before having everything refreshened.

 

Dennis
65' STANG, 434W NA, G101A, 4:56 Spool, Victor Heads, Super Vic Intake, Bullet SR, Braswell Carb, 11:1 CR, 3550lbs
9.66@140.65

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Posted : 04/08/2019 2:40 pm
maverick
(@maverick)
Trusted Member

I would sand it down and put back together and work on your issues.  Just knock off some of the stuff, don't work yup a sweat over it.  And what type of hydraulic bearing are you using???

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Posted : 20/08/2019 4:48 pm
rt1976
(@rt1976)
Eminent Member

I'm using a Tilton that bolts to the Quick Time bellhousing

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Posted : 30/08/2019 1:29 am
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